Piz Bernina (4049 m) via Bianco Ridge, Bernina

It's about time for my first post - so why not start with my most extraordinary mountain experience, that happened eight days ago, in the Swiss alps. More exactly in the Bernina region, where Piz Bernina towers the eastern alps.

Last year July Roland and me have been summiting Piz Morteratsch which offered a good view on Piz Bernina as you can see below, and the most awesome view on the legendary Bianco Ridge.

This year the timing was right for us to try this ascent.

It is obvious that the ascent can be tricky and demands skills in ice and rock climbing, as well as sound standing and walking on a fine snowy ridge. As I was not fully free of giddiness, partly because I also was affected by the altitude in general, the approach confronted me with somehow mixed feelings of freedom and fear.

We started our ascent bright and early (3.30 am) from the Tchierva Hut, and reached the Furcla Prievlusa with the first sun-rays. The climb was comparable easy as it is equipped with steel ankers in the first part (up to the Furcla) and good solid rock in the second part (up to the ridge-line). 

The Bianco Ridge brought us ~ 900 m closer to our summit. The walk on the line was an experience! Steep sections dropped down to both sides. The snow was very firm which made it easy to walk on but increased the feeling of being exposed. Despite our focus on balance and walking we could grasp the beauty of the ridge line and understand why it's so legendary. It truly is a stairway to heaven!

After summiting Piz Bianco, a steep rocky wall had to be resolved before reaching Piz Bernina. We used the rope for the first time today and in 3 pitches with one abseil (grade II-III) we reached the top, my second 4000er and my first one in the alps!

The descend was more challenging than anticipated. The "Spalla Ridge" was very exposed and the snow became so soft that slipping was not out of question. We heard and saw avalanches on the glacier we had crossed one hour before and my heart bounced strong each time!
Roland traversed neat as always but I had to focus harder than on the Bianco ridge!

After a short time we reached the rocky section of the Spalla grat. Two abseils and a short walk brought us to "Rifugia Marco e Rosa", were we spent our afternoon and night. The altitude (3609 m), the Italian flair, walls covered with pictures of nude female climbers and non-climbers paired with a madonna statute and jesus cross, gave this hut a somewhat odd flair.

Looking back to Piz Bernina the next morning, we could see the steepness and length of the Bianco Ridge to the right of Piz Bernina, and the Spalla-Ridge to its left.

What a beautiful mountain and we were so lucky that we could climb it in such good conditions! 
A memorable day!

All photos were taken by R. Aufschnaiter. Except Photo Nr 3 whcih was taken by fellow climbers.