Grundschartner North Ridge, Zillertaler Alpen

This is one of the top alpine granite lines in the tyrolean alps. The climb is very popular and often frequented.

approach: 1400 meters in altitude
climb: 600 meters in altitude (V+/A0), several sections V, mostly IV
descend: 2000 meters in altitude

We parked our car in Haeusling (Zillergrund, Zillertal) and started our ascent at 4:00 am. After about an hour we reached the Bodenalm, and headed on in the rising daylight towards the gravel gorge (on the very right). The steep climb brought us to a corrie, that we crossed towards our left to reach the bottom of the middle ridge (Mittergrad). It took us about 3.5 - 4 hours to approach the Ridge.

The climb was pure pleasure! Long, very long, but unquestionable we enjoyed every single pitch out of the 16 pitches we needed.
After a serious start (down-climb for a couple of meters) on a razor-sharp ridge, I got more comfortable after this first pitch. The ridge expanded and the difficulties decreased (III) for a couple of pitches, before we reached the first crux: V+/A0.
On it goes with purest pleasure, the climbing comes natural, placing the Camelots comes natural, -there are just so many cracks for them!

The last view pitches were perhaps the most beautiful ones. Slabs pierced by cracks, homogenous difficulties (IV - V) and - because we were the slowest and the last party - solitude.

Easy terrain (grade II - III) brought us to the summit after 16 wonderful and exhausting pitches.  It took us 8 hours to climb the ridge. We did not wait long for our descend, as we knew it would take another couple of hours until we were back at the car.

The descend followed down to the Kainzenalm: After the short down-climb (III) we headed to our right, to follow down along the slabs, smoothed by the glacier. There were no markings or cairns, but Roland's intuition for orientation hardly ever fails. Finally we could take a short-cut along a snow field and reached the meadows with little effort. From the meadows we headed right again, passing a creek, to reach the track that leads steeply down to the Kainzenalm. from there, a huge 4WD road leads out of the valley.


A total of 16 hours later we were back at the car, so tired and sore, but so happy we could not stop smiling.

We made it, and we made it alright!

All photos were taken by R. Aufschnaiter.