Mt Tasman (3498m) - Southern Alps, New Zealand

Mt Tasman - Horo Koau (3498m), Southern Alps, New Zealand

route: Pioneer Hut (2380 m) - Marcel Col - Engineer Col -  North shoulder

31.01.2014 - What previously happened

It is the two-week mark since a falling rock hurt Roland’s leg. Back then, a football-sized rock hit Roland’s calf after it has fallen hundreds of meters down the Boys Glacier. We were descending from plateau hut after a failed attempt to summit Mt Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain. A storm forced us to turn around below summit rocks. This is what New Zealand’s mountains are notorious for: bad weather.

Mountaineering adventures were unthinkable now. We passed our time by taking in New Zealand’s stunning coast lines and wildlife: The occasional penguin and sea lions amidst abundant fur seals, on surf and wind-swept sandy beaches off the Catlins. Hundreds of Dusky Dolphins came close to play, when we headed out for an underwater dolphin encounter from Kaikoura. What a joy to interact with these cheerful little creatures! And then … I strongly felt that luck was on our side when our paths crossed with those of a family of Orcas.

Beach at the Catlins Coast

Yellow-eyed penguin and fur seals

 Dusky Dolphins

Orcas

I still feel the buzzing energy from our morning encounter with dolphins and orcas when we check the weather forecast for the next few days. Sitting in a little café in Kaikoura, enjoying our “long black” and “flat white”, we realize that a huge high pressure system over the South Island promises five steady days of sunshine, with little winds. Instead of joy, I feel my stomach drop. This is the best weather forecast since the beginning of the year, the ideal forecast for a trip to the West Coast, a real chance to climb Mt Tasman …. But Roland is still keeping his Ibuprofen-Paracetamol levels high to attenuate the pain in his calf muscles and tendons of knee and ankles.

01.02.2014 - Fly in to Pioneer Hut

We are sitting in a café in Fox, West Coast, and are waiting for our flight to Pioneer Hut (2380 m), situated on Pioneer Ridge between Albert and Explorer glaciers. This hut will be our base for the next few days. “We might as well be up there, sit on the terrace of the hut, look at the glaciers and enjoy the sun!” By saying that, Roland hit the nail on the head, and off we go! We take off in a little helicopter and leave the lush rain forest of the West Coast behind us. Flying over the moraine, I think of the route we would have taken if we would have decided to walk in. Suicide gully is, true to its name, an awkward section between white ice and moraine at the base of Fox glacier. Looking at this section from above, I am more than relieved to sit in the comfort of the helicopter. Minutes later, we watch the helicopter taking off. Once again, we are amidst the most stunning glaciers. We are gazing at the, undoubtedly, most elegant mountain of New Zealand, Mt Tasman. The second highest peak of New Zealand is considered one of the most striking ice summits in the world. I so much wish to climb it!

Pioneer Hut 

02.02.2014 - Mt Lendenfeld

We have made our decision. We are attempting Mt Lendenfeld. We can always turn back if Roland’s leg forces us to. Mt Lendenfeld is on the route to Mt Tasman; it can be reached by travelling over the flat basin of Albert glacier, passing the steep icefall between Mt Haast and Lendenfeld (Haast Corner), and reaching Marcel Col. From here, moderately steep snow slopes (45 – 50 degrees) lead up to the summit, Lendenfeld Peak. To continue up Mt Tasman one would need to descent to Engineer Col and climb the “North shoulder”, a beautiful snow/ice ridge leading all the way up to Mt Tasman.

We were very lucky because deep footsteps showed us the way. We knew, from comments in the hut book that these footsteps came from two of our kiwi friends, Ryan and Dave. Four days ago, they had tried to climb Mt Tasman using the direct route via Engineer Col. This would have allowed them to bypass Lendenfeld peak. However, the Schrund below Engineers Col was not passable, and they had to turn back. Running out of time, they climbed Mt Lendenfeld but did not continue to Mt Tasman. Their effort made our ascent straight-forward and relatively easy. With dawn breaking, we are on Mt Lendenfeld and get a close-up of Mt Tasman!

On the summit of Mt Lendenfeld, looking over to the North shoulder and Mt Tasman 

After a short rest we decide to descend to Engineer Col, to see what it’s like. The steep snow slope is firm and, using both axes, we make a quick descend. There is a fascination to climbing in the rising sun. The solitude on the mountain tops and the mighty of the surrounding mountains, immersed in orange and pink, make your heart beat surrender to the beat of nature.

Descending from Mt Lendenfeld to Engineer Col. At the back: Mt Cook

Mt Tasman in the rising sun

 Looking East to the Plateau from Engineers Col

 Looking back on Mt Lendenfeld

Looking west to Albert glacier, Fox glacier, the West Coast, and the sea!!

03.02.2014 - Mt Tasman

It is 11:30 pm, we are getting out of our sleeping bags and turn the cooker on. Roland’s leg is ok, the forecast is excellent, and summiting Mt Tasman is a real chance now. One hour later, in the light of our head torches, we make our way from Pioneer Hut across the flat basin of Albert glacier towards Haast Corner (between Mt Haast and Lendenfeld). The night is unusual warm. The forecast was “Freezing level above 4000m”, so we know we have to be quick on this tour! While the snow cover is firm enough to carry my weight, Roland sinks in with every step. Still, we make fast progress because our footsteps from the day before show us the way. With Haast Corner, the glacier becomes steeper and we enter the maze of crevasses. The snow gets firmer above the icefall, when the glacier flattens towards Marcel Col. From here, we quickly ascend Lendenfeld Peak, descend to Engineer Col and traverse to the “Ice Cliffs”, a serac at the base of the North shoulder. I feel the tension. How difficult will it be to pass the ice cliffs? We start to climb eastwards beneath the cliffs, follow a gully, then a spur – and unexpectedly easy we are on the ridge again! The slopes are angled at 45 – 50 degrees, and aside from a small Schrund, there were no major difficulties to overcome. Roland told me he is very relieved: “The ice of the cliffs will be solid enough to place ice screws, even if the snow softens in the morning sun.” This guarantees a safe belay on our descend. We continue climbing on the ridge and soon the ridge flattens: we have reached the North shoulder. Dawn has broken. There is no wind. We can see the silhouette of the summit ridge. The summit ridge starts knife-sharp and steepens considerably. We take out our rope and start pitching. Roland leads. The East flank drops a thousand meters down, all the way to the Grand Plateau. The West flank is a balcony of irregular snow groofs and ridges, Sustrugi, formed by windswept snow. Roland places one crampon on the left side and the other crampon on the right side of the knife-sharp ridge. He slowly works his way forward, and the whole action looks very awkward to me! When it’s my turn, I decide to climb the steep eastern slope. But I somehow had to get to this other side! This was the hardest bit and the summit all of a sudden seemed so far away again. “I wont have the mental strength for climbing like this all the way up!” But after this first few meters, even though the ridge gets steeper and is very exposed, it becomes more manageable. We keep pitching; it must have been only two pitches altogether, and then the ridge flattens again. We leave the rope at the belay. It is 7:00 am; in the sunrise we walk the final bit to the very summit of Mt Tasman. 

 Looking back at North Shoulder. I'm climbing the eastern flank.

On the summit ridge, looking back to North shoulder and Mt Lendenfeld 

On the summit of Mt Tasman. In the background the shadows of Mt Tasman and Mt Cook. 

Looking back to the summit ridge in the day-light. The eastern flank is getting soft, but is still ok to climb. The western flank is full of Sustrugi, wind-swept snow-formations. 

We are not taking too much time for ourselfs on the summit, even though there is no wind, and it is so pieceful - and those magnificent views!!! We have to get down before the sun gets stronger and softens the snow. Our timing is pretty good, we climb down on our "four", pitching all the way down to the base of the ice cliffs. This is when our minds and bodies relaxed, and I realized how much my feet hurt! Walking on the front tips of my crampons for so many hours! And - being highly focused and concentrated on every move for so many hours! Now it is time to relax and take a slow descend down to Pioneer Hut. We arrive at the hut around 16:00, after a 15.5 hours climb.

All photos by R. Aufschnaiter and S. Pontasch. 

Piz Palü Ostpfeiler (East ridge; 3882 m) and traverse, Bernina

route: Diavolezza cablecar top station (2973 m) - Piz Palü east ridge (S-) - Piz Palü main summit (3901 m) - Piz Spinas - Fortezza - Diavolezza cablecar top station

Thursday afternoon we took the cablecar to Diavolezza station. From there, we followed the path towards Pers Glacier and decided for a campsite very close to the Furcla d'Arias. Access to water was close and on the ridge there were a few flattened and sheltered sites suggesting that the spot can be busy sometimes. Today it was quite. We are lucky!

The views from the campsite in the evening light were spectacular!! We enjoyed our dinner, and we could not take our eyes from the three prominent ridges of Piz Palue.

From left to right: Piz Cambrena, Piz Palue (with eastern ridge, Bumiller ridge and western ridge), Bellavista.

The next morning, we left the campsite at 4 am. We approached the base of the eastern ridge via the Pers glacier, meandering between the huge crevasses, in the moonlight. The moon was so bright, we could easily see the crevasses and the best ways to avoid them. It took us about an hour and a half to get to the base and there was something very special and magical about the tranquility and the moon escorting us.

The start of the climb is marked with two bolts and a few meters above you'll find a belay. We climbed the first few meters in the dark, and as we approached the ridge, it dawned and we could make out the crevassed glacier beneath us and in the morning sun Piz Bernina and Bianco ridge looked welcoming.

 Looking down to the Pers glacier. 

From left to right: Piz Bernina, Bianco ridge and Piz Morteratsch.

The climb was fun! More or less constant difficulties in grades II - III with some moves that were a little harder (IV), mostly on plates, a very few steep sections, but good solid holds throughout! The crux is a gendarme that can be climbed directly or climbed around to the left (east).  We decided for the direct, bolted variante.  

Roland preparing a belay just below the gendarme.

  Looking back once more. Behind me the gendarme.

Once the tower is passed, the climbing becomes easier again, and soon we reached the snow-ridge. The snow was very firm and good to walk on.

The 45° angled slope and the ridge below.  

  On the eastern summit!

We reached the eastern summit around 10 am. Because the weather looked good for another few hours we decided to traverse the main summit and Piz Spinas and descend via Fortezza to the Pers glacier and back to our campsite. Last year, we traversed Piz Palü in the opposite direction (see http://stefanie-upandunder.blogspot.co.nz/2012/08/piz-palue-3901-m-west-east-traverse.html) and this traverse is absolute stunning!

The Fortezza offers a quite comfortable descent as the way through the rocks is well marked with yellow signs, and there are a few abseil rings if you don't feel quite as comfortable climbing down exposed steep sections (just as me ..).

Crossing the Pers glacier was okay, although the crevasses forced us to meander quite a bit. We were very close to our campsite, maybe 20 min away, when thunder rolled it and a few lightenings scared me. As we reached our campsite it started to hail, and we took down our tent, quickly packed our belongings, and ran off to Diavolezza station. 

We made it safe to catch the cablecar at 4 pm, happy to be back from the mountain just in time, and filled with yet another thrilling mountain experience! 

Piz Roseg (3937 m) via Eselsgrat, Bernina

route: Pontresina - Tchierva Hut - Eselsgrat (ZS-) - Piz Roseg (3937 m)

 

We started at 3:15 am at the Tchierva Hut. It was not difficult to find the route even though it was dark, because the approach was well marked with cairns and a few reflectors. Once we reached the upper glacier, we crossed west  to the start of the "Eselsgrat". It was daylight by then, and two more parties approached to climb the ridge.

The conditions for the climb were ideal: the rock was dry, with difficulties up to III, bolts and belays when necessary. 

Roland just before the first crux. Ahead of him a second party.

We left the ridge, and approached the "Schneekuppe", climbing the glacier. 

Roland on the glacier, the "snowy summit (Schneekuppe)" to his left at the background. The real summit is hiding behind.

I was exhausted and did not feel to climb the summit, so Roland went along to climb it himself.

 Roland on the summit of Piz Roseg.

Meanwhile I was enjoying the impressive views over to Piz Scercen (left) and Piz Zupo (background) with part of the Bellavista terrace and Piz Palü. A party climbed Piz Scercen today .... when will we be standing on this summit?

Solstein Traverse East-West

starting point: Seegrube, Innsbruck, 1906 m
route: Frau Hitt - Brandjochboden - Brandjochkreuz - Vordere and Hintere Brandjochspitze - Hohe Warte - Kleiner  Solstein (2637 m) - Grosser Solstein - Hochzirl
climb: III-

The Karwendel is the part of the Northern Limestone Alps, which lies between the Inn and the Isar, so it is located on and around the Austrian-German border. For me, the Karwendel epitomizes the fascination of mountain scenery: the luscious green of alpine pastures, crowned by rugged mountain peaks and ruptured by vast corries.

Living in Innsbruck, you see the southern range of the Karwendel nearly every day. The prominent peaks look at you when you're running your errands in town, smile at you when you're having a drink at the Marktplatz; they are majestic, impressive - and inviting.
This time we wanted to be in this position and smile down to town. We decided to traverse the Karwendel-range, from Seegrube in the East to Grosser Solstein in the West.

Overview of the traverse as seen from Brandjochkreuz.

We decided for a lazy approach and took the Nordkettenbahn, a mountain lift that took us to Seegrube, the starting point of our adventure. From there we hiked to Frau Hitt Sattle, and climbed up Frau Hitt.  The legend is that Frau Hitt was an avaricious and narcissistic giant woman who petrified when she gave the order to wash her son with white bread dipped in milk while everyone else was starving. Today you can climb up the petrified woman, it's graded III- from the west and III from the east and takes about 15 - 30 min from the Frau Hitt saddle.

From Frau Hitt we descended to Branjochboden, hiked up Brandjochkreuz and took the southern ridge (Suedgrat) to the Vordere Brandjochspitze. The ridge was well marked and rather beautiful and diversified to climb! There are two spots, III-, one of them is a terrifying big step you have to do over the abyss! This time it was me who was half petrified, not knowing how to do this giant leap!

First part of Brandjochspitze Southern Ridge 

On the ridge with views to Innsbruck and the Inn valley.

 

I managed and was rewarded with nice climbs along corners and short slabs before reaching the summit of Vordere Brandjochspitze. Including the Frau Hitt de-tour, it took us about three hours from Seegrube. From here on, it was an alpine climb with no marks or cairns to follow. The climb up to Hintere Brandjochspitze was not too difficult but there was a lot of loose rocks! From here, we stuck to the ridge for the majority of the climb. The traverse from there to Hohe Warte was exposed and rather brittle with a lot of loose rocks. The traverse from Hohe Warte to Kleiner Solstein was not as brittle with some good short climbing sections on solid rock. The descend to  Grosser Solstein was without technical sections. It took us five hours from Brandjochspitze, we took it slowly with plenty of rests and soaking up views, sun and freedom.

Roland descending Hintere Brandjochspitze, heading towards Hohe Warte, the highes peak with the steep North face is the Kleiner Solstein. The broad, flat dome of Grosser Solstein can be seen behind.

 

Looking back to Hintere Brandjochspitze (highest peak) and Vordere Brandjochspitze (to its right) with the southern ridge extending.
 

From Grosser Solstein we descended to Solsteinhuette and hiked out to Hochzirl to catch the bus back to Innsbruck.

It's been a fabulous day, and from now on I will see the those prominent Karwendel peaks with different eyes. Once you've been on the summit and looked back to the city as if looking from a mirror, the perception of the city changes. The peaks are not mere extras in the spectacle of daily life, they have become part of your reality.

Verpeilspitze (3425 m) Nordgrat, Kaunertal

route: Verpeilalm (1802 m) - Verpeiljoch - Verpeilspitze (3425 m) via North Ridge (V) - Madatschjoch - Verpeilalm

 

"...the most generous enterprise in the Kaunertal ..." (climbers-paradise.com) - amazing views but a little tedious because super-long climb!

It took us about two hours to get to the Verpeiljoch, and we spend about nine hours on the ridge. We belayed most sections, although we started off short-roping and also short-roped easier sections in between.
The rock is solid and the route beautiful: straight on the ridge and straight over every gendarme! The route has been bolted by Florian Schranz. You find detailed information about this climb on his website:  http://www.eisalpin.at.

From the summit we descended southwards and headed back to the Verpeilalm via Madatschjoch.

 

More information and topo by Florian Schranz: http://www.eisalpin.at/pdf/Verpeilspitze-Nordgrat.pdf

Hochrinnegg (3058 m) Nordwand - Plattensymphonie, Kaunertal

starting point: Verpeilalm, Kaunertal
climb: 700 Hm, 14 pitches (VI-) + 2 pitches on the summit ridge
descend: very alpine!

Starting at the Verpeilalm we approached on the new "Dr Angerer Hoehenweg" in about 2 hours the base of the Northern rock wall of Hochrinnegg. The starting point of the route is between the left snow basin and the buttress and well marked with a bolt and red arrow.

  

The route has all necessary bolts, and three fantastic pitches in the grades V to VI-. The remaining pitches are easier and just as much enjoyable!

 In the third pitch.

Roland leading the 4th pitch.

The length of the tour is not to be underestimated. We are a slow climbing party and it took us 7.5 hours before reaching the summit. 

The descend is very alpine but well marked with red dots. As we descended we must have said thank you a thousand times to Florian Schranz (first ascent) or those fellow climbers that did so well with marking the way. Soon after we started our descend into the steep gorge it started to rain and finally hail. The rock was soaked pretty quickly, and made the climbing difficult and slow. It rained and hailed for an hour or so, and as it stopped and we looked back the steep terrain we came from, we hardly believed we made it safe!

It took us about three hours from the summit back to the Verpeilalm. 

The photo below has been taken on the weekend following this trip and highlights our descend.  

more infos and topo: http://www.topalpin.at/html/florians-welt-tirol.htm

Musterstein: ViaMarionundJoëlle, Wettersteingebirge

starting point: Reindlau (Leutasch)
approach: ~ 1100 Hm
climb: 250 HM
Saturday route: Reindlau - Leutascher Platt - Musterstein Grat - Meilerhuette - Leutascher Platt
Sunday route: Leutascher Platt - Söller Pass- Reindlau


We followed the Bergleintal trail, which soon leaves the forest behind and enters narrow and steep terrain. But then the trail opens up wide again on a karst plateau, the Leutascher Platt, which is surrounded by prominent rock walls of the Wetterstein range. Among those, the Musterstein builds the northern limitation of the plateau.

Looking back the Bergleintal.

We decided to climb "Viamarionandjoëlle" (V, 6 pitches), which does not end on the summit but on the western ridge of Musterstein.

Musterstein from the Leutascher Platt highlighting Viamarionundjoëlle.

The rock is incredibly rough. As I was leading the second pitch, graded III, I wondered how hard the V will be to climb ... and resigned the lead for the remaining pitches ... The sixth pitch indeed was quite steep and sustained difficult in its second part.

Roland in the third pitch (V), placing a friend just below the crux.

We used the Panico topo, which is identical to the topo in the Alpenvereinsfuehrer. The exit from the last pitch onto the ridge is marked towards the right (east) on both topos - but you are supposed to follow the groove to the left - so you will actually exit at the last bolt.

The descend is not difficult and follows the western ridge towards the Meilerhuette. Cairns are sometimes well hidden, but mark the way.

After a good afternoon spent in the rock walls, we enjoy our dinner in the setting sunlight.





Roland, Tine and Bella looking towards Musterstein while the Spaghettis are boiling.



The next morning, we get up early to hike up to the Söllerpass for sunrise. We are awarded with spectacular views, mountains and walls immersed in golden, pink and purple light, and the wonderful intense feeling of life.  



View from the Söllerpass to Karwendel.